Knit patterns for a long time preserved Estonian tradition, during the long centuries of foreign rule. On leaving Otepää, our family gave us each a pair of traditional woollen socks. They make great slippers and are now worn out at the heels.
This knitting design looks much like any other from Scandinavia. In the 1960s and ‘70s it was fashionable to wear ski jumpers knitted in stylised snowflakes. Obviously, there is more to the story – or I would not be writing it – and, once again, the source is Marju Kõivupuu’s book, Estonian mythology for the beginner.
A chapter on symbols speaks on geometrical designs adorning the sleeves of women’s traditional garments, the woollen belt of the peasant farmer, book margins, pullovers, scarves and socks, you name it.
Squares or diamonds, crosses, zigzag lines, triangles, and squares with small loops in the corners symbolised the infinite and eternal universe, and power to humans over the forces of nature, or the power of symbols to ward off evil spirits.
In the sock pattern, small crosses represent the tree of life or elupuu, and when placed within squares or diamonds, the cosmic link or connection between sky and earth, a symbolism that runs through the world’s indigenous traditions.
Red is an auspicious colour in Estonia, embodying the life force, or elujõu, a “good, healthy colour”, Kõivupuu writes.
My own woollen belt, or vöö, is woven in a design from Rakvere, where our grandmother was born. Alongside blue and white motifs, threads of red figure in a rough sort of zigzag or ussijoon, snake line. This symbolises fruitfulness, good fortune and prosperity.
Can one read too much into Estonian knitting and weaving designs? Not according to Estonian knitwear designer Aleks Byrd. She writes:
“Searching for meaning in long-held traditional motifs and patterns can be challenging but sometimes you can hit gold. In Estonia, tradition and cultural tradition is absolutely vital, and important to Estonian identity throughout a tumultuous past.”
Byrd discusses a variety of nature-based motifs, some of which became geometrical figures over time. She cites an undated book by GA Saarso, titled Rahvuslikud sümbolid, or “Folk symbols”.
She translates from Saarso: “The original belt patterns’ and old embroidery and mitten patterns’ geometric ornament whose base element is the square, cross, zig zag, triangle, stitch, square. These have a worldwide holy meaning, that originated thousands of years ago. They are tied to star gazing, nature and fruit of the earth. These had mystical meaning and later they became more of an aesthetic. The mix of what is aesthetic and what is symbolic over time can be blurred.”
Who knows whether the knitter of my socks was thinking of the universe, or the forces of nature when moving the needles. Regardless, I like the concept and will add more socks to my purchases on the next visit to the old country.
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